Solutions for your water heater problems

Before buying a new electric water heater, check to see if you can repair yours. The following tips can also apply to gas water heaters.

Potential solutions:

• The high temperature limit may have tripped in the breaker box. If so, turn off power to the tank. Then, remove the cover from the upper element port on the tank. Take out the insulation, remove the element’s cover, and then press the red reset button.
• If the red reset button doesn’t work, then there is a problem with the electrical supply. Either the high limit is damaged or the electrical feed is insufficient. Use a multimeter to test the electrical supply.
• There may be a problem with the thermostat either on the top or on the bottom on the tank. Either replace the thermostat(s) or hire a licensed technician to do it.
• If the inside of the element’s compartment is wet, then it is time to purchase a new hot water heater.
• If simple repairs do not solve the problem, there could be greater electricity issues within the home. It is highly recommended to hire a licensed electrician to evaluate the home’s electrical system and to complete the repair work.

Gas water heaters tend to require more frequent maintenance.  These heaters simply have more pieces and parts that may need to be repaired throughout the tank’s lifespan.

Potential solutions:

• Hire a service technician to evaluate whether or not the thermocouple is faulty. The thermocouple is a safety device that shuts off the gas when the pilot goes out. If the thermocouple is faulty, it will shut off the pilot light frequently without cause.
• Investigate whether or not the pilot light is being blown out by drafts within close proximity to the hot water tank. If needed, install a downdraft hood on top of the tank and a pilot-light baffle below near the pilot light to protect the flame from blowing out.
• Sometimes power ventilation equipment located nearby could cause the pilot light to blow out. If the water heater shares ventilation tubing with equipment that has power ventilation, then install its own separate ductwork to ensure that the water heater gets a dedicated supply of combustion air.
• The pilot line could be clogged. It will need to be cleaned by a licensed professional.
• Lastly, the control valve could be faulty. It will need to be replaced.

Potential solutions:

• Install or replace the pressure valve if the tank does not already have one or if it is broken.
• The tank’s temperature could be too high and is therefore causing the water to be under high pressure. Reduce the temperature to 130°F.

Potential solutions:

• Replace the flushing valve.
• An economical alternative includes purchasing a zinc cap, attaching a hose washer onto it, and then screwing it onto the valve. The zinc cap and hose washer may stop the drip if screwed on tightly.

Water heaters, no matter what the fuel source and whether or not it has a tank, occasionally have small issues that can easily be resolved.

Potential solutions:

• The smell is most likely caused by anaerobic bacteria. However, if both the cold and hot water smell foul, the water supply may have sulfur.
• To kill the anaerobic bacteria, turn off the cold water valve to the water heater and open a hot faucet somewhere in the home to relieve pressure. Drain the water from the tank; open the plumbing on one side and dump in a few pints of hydrogen peroxide. Close up the tank, turn on the cold water valve again, and let some water run from all the spigots and taps throughout the home. Caution! Take care not to add chlorine bleach to the tank instead of hydrogen peroxide.
• Do not replace the magnesium sacrificial anode rod with an aluminum anode rod. Also, make sure to keep the magnesium anode rod in place to prevent premature tank corrosion.

Solution:

• Quickly hire a professional plumber to clean the ventilation pipe.
• Make sure the furnace does not share a vent with the hot water heater and other appliances and equipment.

Potential solutions:

• The water heater’s thermostat is set to vacation mode or is set below 120°F.
• Press the reset button on the high-temperature cut-off.
• The hot water tank’s heating element needs to be replaced.
• The water heater’s pipes need to be insulated. Add self-sticking 3/8" thick foam pipe insulation that matches the pipes’ diameter to all accessible hot water supply pipes.
• Check to see if the high limit switch button has tripped. It is possible the fuse has blown. If so, this circuit breaker will need to be repaired immediately. The circuit breaker wiring may need to be replaced by a licensed electrician.
• One or more thermostats may be faulty and need to be replaced.
• Verify whether or not the dip tube is split or broken. If it is, then the cold water will mix with the hot water at the top of the tank where the water leaves to go to each point of use. Replace the dip tube if needed.

Accessories and parts for water heaters.

Here are a few general rules to follow to make your life easier:

• Always turn off the water heater circuit breaker before beginning any repairs and maintenance.
• Always put back all parts and pieces exactly as they were originally packed when finished making the repair.
• Follow recommendations from the water heater’s manufacturer.
• Apply for permits when needed.
• Review building codes.
• Follow any recommended precautions when working with electricity and gas fuel.
• Hire a professional for all work that is too difficult for the homeowner.